No Sporks Allowed

Bacon & Dark Chocolate Chip Cookies With Maple Cinnamon Glaze

2011-01-10T19:25:00.022-05:00

Yield: 2 dozen
Serves: 2 people

COOKIES:

3/4 cup butter
2/3 cup packed brown sugar
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon hazelnut OR almond extract
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 eggs
2 1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup white chocolate chips
1 cup dark chocolate chips
2 lbs high quality bacon, cooked and crumbled (about 2 cups)
1/2 lb high quality bacon, cooked in whole strips

MAPLE GLAZE:

2 cups powdered sugar
1 tablespoon maple extract
Splash of shagbark hickory syrup (OPTIONAL)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

DIRECTIONS:

In a large bowl, cream the butter, sugars, extracts and eggs. In another bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and stir together.
Dough will be slightly soft. If you want a more cake-like cookie, add another 1/2 cup of flour. Mix in chocolate chips and crumbled bacon. Stir until well integrated.
Place dough in refrigerator and let rest 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Remove dough from fridge. Roll 2 tablespoons worth of dough into ball. Set dough balls about 2 inches apart on ungreased cookie sheet. Flatten dough balls slightly with your fingers. Bake about 10 minutes, or until the dough starts to turn golden brown. Allow cookies to cool on cooling rack while you make the glaze.
Maple-Cinnamon Glaze: Mix 2 cups powdered sugar, 1 tablespoon maple extract, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, shagbark syrup and ½ teaspoon cinnamon with enough water to make a thick glaze, about 3 tablespoons. Wisk all ingredients together until smooth and creamy.
Spread a small amount of glaze on top of each cooled cookie and top with a small piece (1 inch) of crisp bacon.
Sneak off to couch with platter of cookies, watch episodes of 80's sitcoms (they go especially well for some reason with Punky Brewster or Alf) and enjoy.

Farm Bloomington

2011-01-10T18:42:00.003-05:00

108 East Kirkwood, Bloomington, IN 47408 • (877) 440-FARM

ANY CHEF THAT MAKES SPOONS OUT OF COOKIES IS ALL RIGHT BY ME

What a quirky place. It's one of those wonderful places that knows who it is, where it is and what it's doing philosophically while backing up the whole thing with deliciously flavorful food and great service. What seems at first sight as a quaint tearoom / antique mall / run-for-the-hills-the-food-here-is-all-about-chicken-salad kinda place quickly gives way to a funky industrial warehouse whimsy that immediately makes me think something interesting is going on here.

FARMBloomington is the socially-conscious, green-minded, locally produced food brain child of Indiana native chef Daniel Orr. The low-brow menu consists of down home comfort foods brought up to culinary scratch with playful ingredients and worldly flavors; Seared scallops with red curried cauliflower and chili vinegar...Waygu beef hamburger with sunny side up duck egg and wasabi mustard...and a customer favorite of minty green pea guacamole. The gourmet pizzas are rustic (and outstanding) as are the FARMfamous Garlic Fries...yes...I said garlic fries.

The FARMbar is also outstanding. A full selection of luxury bourbons and single malts line the indiana small town turned rock and roll bar ledge. The service is friendly and fun and you immediately sense from the diversity and educated tone of the staff and customers that you are in a university town.

Farm Bloomington will serve me well as a nice long drive reward from downtown Indy or a lazy day pit stop on the way back home from Brown County. Sunday nights are reserved for the sous chefs to shine (and give the regular chefs the night off) and the menu and crowds are pared down.

Buying a copy of the FARMfood, the green living book by Chef Orr, I was tickled to see not only a large selection of spice combinations and sauce recipes but also a list of preferred cooking preparations for Hoosier game ranging from Oppossum, Raccoon, Groundhog, Squirrel and Turtle. Hey...keeping local food tradition alive isn't always pretty (though I bet oppossum is good).

Check out Chef Daniel Orr's FARMBloomington Blog by clicking here

Recess

2011-01-10T12:35:00.001-05:00

4907 N College, Indianapolis, IN 46205 • (317) 925-PLAY

BEST RESTAURANT IN TOWN

What's there to say about the food ... that it comes from local celebrity chef Greg Hardesty means its thoughtful seasonal food that is beautifully cooked with a interesting point of view. I was so angry at this town after the close of Elements where I first became a monthly fan of his kitchen creations. Now I breathe a little easier knowing there is once again a restaurant in town I don't have to apologize for and a place I can call my own whenever I need something special.

The single meal concept culinary trend...or should I say culinary reaction... is a deliberate answer to the massive over abundance of choice, forcing fresh and anything you want when you want it tradition this country nurtured through the last 15 years. Its' the best result of a chef-owned restaurant. Amen to that.

The $52 per person price tag (varies per menu day of course) for a three course meal keeps the quality high and the place mostly filled with business dinners during the week and empty nesters and younger foodies on the weekends.

Great news article link here from IBJ on the restaurants success...great videos of Hardesty talking about the struggles and rewards of this venture....plus a little more info about his upcoming casual next door restaurant Rm. 4 which plans on serving tasty short-order comfort food.

Hollyhock Hill

2010-11-10T20:34:00.006-05:00

8110 N College Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46240, (317) 251-2294

OH HELL NO!

This place spins out boring, bland "food" and is a great example of what's wrong with our city's culinary future. Dated and sad, the food is fit for a 1981 budget rehearsal dinner...yet people around these parts say they Love it!

Hollyhock Hill first opened its doors in 1928. Don't be mistaken however that surviving for the last 80 years is a testament to its cuisine. It's due to the family style tradition of Hoosiers loving family style traditions. There's nothing wrong with celebrating at a place you remember fondly ... just don't tell me it's for the food.

This is the perfect place for a mediocre office party or if you want to be surrounded by an elderly group of ice tea drinking gadabouts. While they boast serving "America's BEST Fried Chicken," I can't even be bothered to upload pictures of it to the blog. yuck.

Napolese

2010-11-02T18:32:00.003-04:00

114 East 49th St, Indianapolis, IN 46205 • (317) 925-0765

I waited to say anything about Napolese until I had eaten there a handful of times and so far I've sampled most of what they have to offer. While the rest of the menu is decent, I've been blown away each time by their European style pizza. What is the magic that local restaurant owner Martha Hoover wields? She's created yet another culinary home run by bringing artisanal style pizza to the Indy masses...and we're better for it.

Napolese is as cozy as the neighborhood surrounding it and the Roman-style pizzas are fantastic. They are flat and chewy with raised pillow-puffed edges and bits of slightly charred hot spots...exactly how they should be. Don't get me wrong, I still love Bazbeaux, Jockamo and Some Guys pizza...but Napolese serves up pizza I can't get anywhere else in town.

The prosecco is inexpensive and good. The prosciutto and arugula starter is weak on parmesan and dry as a brush fire. The truffle white bean purée is fantastic and the affogato di gelato makes you black out from delight. The polenta and goat cheese starter is not fine dining but the focaccia is pleasingly addicting.

Highlight pizzas for me have been the Napolese Broken Yolk, Meridian Kessler and Autumn Pie, while the classic Margherita with prosciutto (or pancetta) hits my top.

Get there early or very late otherwise expect to stand in line outside drooling at the diners.

Taqueria Five Amigos Mexican Food Stand

2010-11-02T17:38:00.002-04:00

5657 E. Washington St., Indianapolis, IN 46241 • (317) 227-9400

Drive down east Washington street at three-thirty in the morning and you'll see a few things out of the ordinary. One of those will surely be a small group of people huddled around a patio heater on the side of the road waiting to order at a traditional Mexican food stand. Taqueria Five Amigos serves Mexican comfort food favorites such as cabeza (beef head) tacos, lengua (tongue) tortas and gringo favorites such as tacos al pastor and chicken or beef nachos daily from 10am to 5am.

Thinking I'd hit the Latin working class Joe's jackpot for a late night snack place, I've been surprised time and time again at its diverse range of customers; middle aged women, young professionals, the working poor, homeless and a foodie or two all seem to descend on the place in equal measure.

Their asada, chorizo or pollo tacos are popular favorites and at $1.50 each they are ordered by the handful. Another highlight is the Taco-in-a-Bag; a layered taco prepared in a snack-sized Fritos bag and served with a fork. Waste not, want not.

You may be tempted to get your food and run...but don't. Take a seat under the patio heater and relax a few minutes...enjoy it. The lively group of customers are as much part of the story as the tasty food itself. Last trip I bought a taco for a hungry guy walking by and an insurance agent from Fishers bought me a pineapple cola. Thanks stranger.

Naisa Pan-Asian Cafe

2010-10-08T10:51:00.004-04:00

1025 Virginia Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46203. (317) 602-3708

Naisa Pan-Asian Cafe is a welcome treat to the growing list of notable Fountain Square restaurants. Since its opening a short 18 months ago, it's found a tight following from the downtown week day crowd and the neighborhood locals have claimed it as their own. Voted this year as the Best Chinese in Indianapolis by TheIndyChannel.com's A-List, Naisa (Asian spelled backwards) has all the signs of remaining a friendly, clean, fresh tasting neighborhood Chinese restaurant.

Glad to see some non traditional offerings on the menu (do we really need more Kong Pao Chicken in this town?) I ordered the owner's childhood favorite "comfort food" dish, the Naisa Golden Sunrise; stewed tomatoes sautéed with scrambled eggs and spices, served in a traditional clay pot steeping in its own juices. It was warm and fragrant, moist and fresh...it was one of those foods that should be eaten curled up on the couch with a good book. Yum!

The owners are lovely. Dedicated to fresh tasting Asian inspired food, they also encourage diversity by supporting my alma mater, the Herron School of Art. Herron students are hired as servers, allowed to showcase student work on the walls and even the design and construction of their business sign became a school year project.

Other menu highlights are the kimchee, Triple Greens in Garlic Chiles and the Spicy Basil Curry Fried Rice. Attentive service, modern, comfortable ambiance.

Harvest - St Louis

2010-09-14T21:14:00.017-04:00

1059 S Big Bend Blvd, St Louis, Missouri 63117

BREAD PUDDING! BREAD PUDDING! GET THE BREAD PUDDING!

The reviews everywhere are accurate...this chef owned restaurant continues to have a great reputation. Apart from the dated decor (home store sphagnum moss, tacky silk flowers and twinkle lights hanging from the ceiling, a cheap color palette taken from Olive Garden! and even a website that looks old and prissy) the food was way above average. Highlights are the rabbit confit (clean and fresh) and the Bread Pudding which is the best on the planet (I'M NOT KIDDING).

Istanbul Cafe - Indianapolis

2010-09-14T20:32:00.001-04:00

1450 West 86th Street (86th and Ditch), Indianapolis, IN 46260, (317) 876-9810

Delicious. Affordable. Its the fresh ingredient, fine food version of the other Greek and Turkish restaurants in the area. Carefully prepared Basmati rice and delicious sauteed vegetables accompany most items and are as carefully prepared as the entrees. I don't know why Mediterranean food in this country has usually been translated into cheap, low value "food" but Istanbul Cafe is the exception.

While some of the items have been spiced-down for Hoosier tastes (lentil soup, tilapia, dolmathes)...the servers can help you navigate some full-flavored traditional selections (ezme, veal liver, doner kebab). The menu has a nice selection of vegetarian options, the bar is full and the wine list is large.

My New Favorite Treat - Persian Saffron Brittle

2010-09-07T17:09:00.000-04:00

Sometimes I get so excited about a new food infatuation that I feel compelled to tell the world.

This time around it's a Persian delicacy called "Sohan Ghom" or Saffron Brittle. It's a skilled and secretive undertaking trying to locate recipes for this biscuit type brittle made with pistachios, cardamom and saffron. It's not too sweet, not too hard, buttery, slightly bitter brittle that has a soft hay-like smell and a melt in your mouth richness. I can't get enough of it!

The city of Qom (or Ghom) in Iran has been famous since antiquity for its Sohan and exports of the dessert from the region can be found in various international and middle eastern grocery stores in town. The Fard Candy company in California also uses these traditional recipes in their versions available for sale online here.

The Tamale Place - Indianapolis

2010-08-22T18:32:00.006-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

THE TAMALE GETS A MAKEOVER

The Tamale Place owners Angela Green and Vladimir Ronces opened a new location this week for their Mexican feel good tamale store. More precisely, they shut the doors on the original location and moved everything into a freshly built-out space just 500 feet to the east! Located in the strip near the corner of Rockville and Lynhurst roads, the new location looks like a clean and tidy retail front with a lots of elbow room for making their huge tamales.

Get there early or be disappointed. The tamale selection changes daily and the early bird gets to pick. People come for the large menu of various mild, spicy, vegetarian and dessert tamales though large tortas, tacos and seasonal favorites (pozole and atole in winter and fresh elote in summer) round out the menu. Know for their great tasting fresh masa and corn tortillas, the take home sized bag of tortilla chips are thick and crunchy favorites.

The current menu is available on their website and includes traditional favorites such as poblano and cheese, pork in red sauce and chicken in mole as well as delicious new favorites such as thin cigar sized pork and beef Cubans, medium red pork Recession Tamales and dessert tamales of pineapple and raisin, pumpkin or chocolate.

The Tamale Place is known for serving up big tamales with generous amounts of meat. Too much meat if you ask me. My Hot and Spicy pork (which was neither hot nor spicy mind you) and my Chicken Verde had way too much meat on them to appreciate the masa... hey guys...I'm in it for the corn taste too!

My favorite are the smaller Cuban tamales. They're succulent, the right mix of meat to masa and are perfectly tasty. The Poblano and Cheese are also wonderful and gain from the moisture and salt of the cheese. The Chipotle Beef were ok...a little under-seasoned but moist. The Lil' Red Sweetie dessert tamales made me chuckle as I bit into the yummy bright red colored sugar and masa cake.

Congrats on the move guys. The new digs are nice. I hope this means business is booming and that we might see a few more of you popping up around town.

Tamales for world peace.

Pigs In The Mud - Indianapolis

2010-08-15T19:07:00.003-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

HERE PIGGY PIGGY!

Cooked bacon dipped in dark chocolate, frozen, gathered on a plate and sprinkled with confectioners sugar. DELISH! I've followed and wallowed in the bacon and chocolate trend over the last few years (Vosges Chocolate Mo's bar, bacon and chocolate cupcakes, bacon chocolate chip cookies and chocolate covered pork cracklins to name a few) and its finally come to fruition as the best selling food item at everyman's event, the Great Indiana State Fair. Can I get an Amen?

Machu Picchu Peruvian Restaurant - Indianapolis

2010-08-10T19:09:00.009-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

GOOD ALL YEAR ROUND

It's a hot humid summer day and of course I'm in the mood for a big bowl of steamy soup and a large hearty hot meal, right? I don't understand it myself, but none the less I knew just where to go.

In winter I find myself tucking-in for a satisfying hot lunch at Machu Picchu Peruvian restaurant on west 38th street at least once a week. They always have large hearty lunch specials and...well...frankly, I'm addicted to their white buttered bread and Aji dipping sauce (peppers, egg, oil, cilantro and green onions...though I can't get them to give me the exact recipe).

The $6.99 lunch special is almost always a large soup followed with a main of meat, starch and salad. The soups traditionally range from chicken, beef, barley, bean or seasonal corn. The starches are almost always rice, potatoes or yucca (or a combination of two or more...they love their carbs) and the salads are most often a twist on a salsa criolla with onions and tomatoes, cilantro or greens or maybe beets and shredded root vegetables.

Machu Picchu has always been on my favorites list for it's good tasting quick lunchtime service. Here are a few of their menu selections that keep me coming back for more;

Choros a la Chalaca - Peruvian style Mussels on the half shell ceviched with lime, red onion, aji and rocoto peppers, corn kernels and cilantro.

Yuquitas a la Huancaína - Fried yucca sticks with creamy cheese sauce (think of it as "chips" with gravy or fries with mayonaise, etc).

Lomo Saltado - Peruvian stir fry with beef tenderloin, onion, tomatoes, french fries (mixed in) and cilantro served with white rice.

Papa Rellena - fried potato ball stuffed with minced beef heart - HUGE portion and delicious (think of it as rösti with minced wienerschnitzel or tater tots with meatballs).

And to top it all off make sure you order an Inca Cola (or get a 2 liter to go). I'm usually not a pop or cola fan but the lemon verbena zing of the bright yellow drink makes me smile.


$6.99 Lunch Special - Chicken and onion herb vegetable soup, fried pork with red onion and beet salad, fried yucca and white rice

"On Time" Chinese Dim Sum Restaurant

2010-07-31T14:40:00.004-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

"ON TIME" IS DEFINITELY NOT

It was surprising to walk into On Time Chinese Restaurant yesterday and see it was just as clean and bright as when it first opened two years ago. It's a large, open, dim sum food hall type space with a traditional event stage in one corner, booths hugging the walls and large round lazy-susan tables running down the center...all crammed into the almost vacant, slightly decrepit strip mall north of Saraga International Grocery Store just off Lafayette Road.

A regular Friday afternoon lunch and no more than a handful of the fifty or so customers were not Chinese...good for the expectation of authentic Chinese food...but bad for service since it became apparent the key to getting your food served "On Time" was to yell across the restaurant in Mandarin what you wanted next.

After being treated by the hostess like an unwanted guest at a private wedding reception (and actually being frowned at by a male waiter), my pot of green tea turned cold over the next hour as large soup tureens, mounded plates of vegetables and wooden buckets full of rice (all ordered after me by the way) were quickly served onto other tables. At the one hour and five minute mark since ordering it was time to leave. Making my way to the door, the waitress ran up to my table with a small plate of chive dumplings. It was another fifteen minutes until the rest of the order arrived and then only after pulling two servers aside to demand the check.

It was hard ordering dim sum off their menu that had the chance of actually being made on location rather than thawed from the freezers of large Chinese food distributors in New York (not a single fresh vegetable dim sum on their menu by the way). The fried turnip cake and minced shrimp stuffed green peppers (Yeung Ching Jui) were the only items that tasted somewhat fresh from the kitchen. The rice in lotus leaf (Non Moi Gai) is better from the frozen food section in Saraga to boil at home and the pork dumplings (Sui Mai) which are always a traditional highlight of any dim sum meal, were just the right temperature to melt through the table down to the center of the earth. The fried shrimp and pork dumplings were tired and dull and the black bean sauce with the steamed chicken feet came from a bottle.

Weekday Dim sum in this town are far and few between (RIP Yum Yum) and they are all pretty much the same identical mass produced distributor bought giant bag frozen variety...but...at least you can get them other places without the attitude and "On Time."

Minced Shrimp stuffed green peppers and Fried Turnip Cake

TaTa Cuban Cafe

2010-07-19T19:38:00.002-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

"THE CUBANO IS BACK"

Miami ruined me. A great Cuban sandwich is something you'd think could be made just about anywhere ... but for some reason that's just not the case. Perhaps it's the Cuban bread, readily available and freshly baked down there but strangely elusive outside the state. Maybe its just a matter of not being able to buy the right "La Plancha" to correctly grill it? No matter what the strange mix of missing factors always seem to be, it added up to relegating my Cubano excitement to trips to south Florida.

Having given up, it was startling to see the "El Guaso" Cubano set down in front of me today at TaTa Cuban Cafe. It seemed to be just right ... or close enough to just right to make me a believer once again. I'd eaten here lots...ordered this sandwich in fact more than a few times, but today it was so damn close to what is considered beautiful latin sandwich perfection that it compelled me to sound the alarm. Hot, moist, steamed and compressed...the right bread (minus the palm frond trench down the center but perfectly without the chew inside) The right amount of cheese and a beautiful Mojo sauce on the side ... and only a few blocks east of the circle!

I don't know what happened and I don't care but I'm putting TaTa's back on my map.

Circle City Sweets - Indianapolis

2010-07-03T09:03:00.002-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

"HELLO...MY NAME IS MARK AND I'M A MACARON ADDICT"

Anyone who knows me knows I'll sell my soul for a French Macaron. I've chased them down in Paris, London, Rome, Zurich, LA, New York, Chicago and any chance I can find them I scarf them down (See earlier posts on this blog from Pierre Hermé in Paris and Paulette's in Los Angeles). As special gifts I even have friends make them for me (please keep them coming) and when in a new city one of the first searches I do on my iphone map is for "French Macarons."

A few months ago my iphone told me there was a cache of French Macarons just a few miles from me in the City Market. I went berserk, told everybody, went to the market and voila...nothing! Just the same old cookie dealer with a few tired American coconut macaroons. hmmph!

Then guess what happened? Technology WAS in fact faster than life and there WERE French Macarons hiding at the City Market after all, under a new vendor "Circle City Sweets." I pounced on the place, scanned the display cases full of tarts, cakes, cookies...did I just see a financier in Indianapolis? ...and something almost the shape of a Canelé...my GOD...they have Beignets on Thursday mornings once a month!?! But...alas...where were the colorful mounds of macarons stacked to perfection?

They were, as it turns out, in the freezer...[car tires screeching to a halt]...and only in three different flavors...[sound of bomb destroying planet].

I kept my head up, ordered a stack along with a few chef recommended house favorites and went on my way trying to figure out exactly how long frozen almond flour takes to defrost. It turns out it takes about 20 minutes...which also turned out to be the perfect amount of time for the clear plastic tube they were stacked in to collect their frozen condensation and damage the cargo. COME ON!

Chocolate - Good bite and chew, full flavored, not as rich as it could be but finished round in the mouth. I'll buy again.
Raspberry - Bad color, terrible chew (wet from the tube), good strong flavor punch but finished overly sweet. No thanks.
Pistachio - Horrid color, great bite and chew, nice flavor, finished soft with a nice nut meat after taste. I'll take two please.

I'm happy enough to have a local fix and the rest of what I tried from baker/owner Cindy Hawkins was far superior to anything else in the general area...but French Macarons are not something to take lightly. They can't be made in ugly colors (there is a story that Ladurée took 115 batches to get the color right for their jasmine mango macaroon) nor frozen fresh ... and they can't be sold in plastic tubes like an impulse item at the grocery store. They need delicate attention and should be elevated as the best example of what a classic baker can do.

I'll keep showing up at Circle City Sweets whenever my addiction rears its ugly head and ignore some of the artistry I have in my head for comparison. It just doesn't feel good to have to do so.

Locally Grown Gardens - Indianapolis

2010-05-31T16:36:00.021-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

BEST PIG IN TOWN

Any place with a hand painted sign sitting out front that says "Hog Roast Daily" is vying for my affection...add then a artist sensibility to merchandising locally grown greens, vegetables, herbs, boutique honeys, butters and gourmet food items, a row of delicious looking pies, a refrigerator stuffed with vintage and boutique colas (Indian Bubble Up, Jamaican Koala Champagne, Victorian Lemonade,) and a seasonal menu of beautifully crafted food...I'M IN LOVE!

Locally Grown Gardens is located in a small service station building facing 54th street, but just like it's products, the space is beautifully simple. Out front a few cushioned winged back chairs, several small low tables and two sturdy picnic tables are scattered between clumps of potted flowers and herb plants for sale. There is a small out-of-the-sun dinning area inside with a large harvest table and library with books on cooking, ingredients and gardening.

A large blackboard at the back of the store announces what's in season and what's on the small menu. The Roast Hog Open Sandwich (roasted on-site out back) is the best pork I've had anywhere in town...anywhere in years for that matter and I can't stop thinking about it! I'm all about eating pig and it was even more succulent than the pig roasts I've romanticized from my childhood. I have a feeling Chef Ron Harris that we're going to be seeing a lot of each other this summer. The home made BBQ sauce was warm, sweet, smoky and tangy.

This is the type of place I'm used to seeing in places like Savannah or Portland...cities where the division between country and city have come together and eateries have formed that boast architecture reclamation, a celebration of a locally grown harvest and a delicious chef-owner perspective on food. These are the places that anchor support for a local slow food community of believers and I'm hoping this town is ready!...and...did I mention the pork?

Good Morning Mama's Cafe - Indianapolis

2010-05-27T14:25:00.026-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

MAMA MIA! BLIND FOLD PLEASE.

The brightly colored converted retro service station that houses Good Morning Mama's Cafe sits on the lot just a few doors down from its big sister Mama Carolla's. Like a younger sibling desperately wanting a funky style all its own, the place looks like it was thrown together by Punky Brewster. Owners Carole and Howard Leuer did however build a family oriented neighborhood place open Tuesday through Sunday that serves an affordable tasty casual breakfast and lunch.

It's a strange looking place...a combination of Key West meets Disney cruz ship (or something like that). A dated looking style of hand painted murals, cultural icons and food advertisements decorate the bright yellow cinder block walls as fabric banners of bluebirds hang down over tables adorned with repro fiesta ware...its really NOT pretty. Then again, the screaming kids running everywhere seemed to love it!

The decent sized breakfast menu (menu available here) has the usual items you'd expect to see as well as a few carefully chosen comfort foods such as the Loco Moco (a traditional Hawaiian rice bowl with a beef patty, brown gravy and egg), the 1940's (a combination of Spam, Cheeze Whiz, onions and marinara), Elvis' Favorite (Peanut Butter and Bacon sandwich...with a banana if you choose) and a few dishes with beautiful salt cured pork belly (though they mispelled Pancetta on the menu...uh...twice).

I TOLD you this place was trying desperately hard to be different.

The Loco Moco was nice though the brown gravy tasted a little processed and it needed a splash of hot sauce. Even when ordered with a broken yolk there could have been a touch of gravy added to the bottom to help wet everything down when mixed together. I'd try it again but with spam instead. The Mexican breakfast tacos (substituted with chorizo) were great. They were almost dry and could have used a wetter pico de gallo but otherwise were full of flavor. The service was fast, the food was inexpensive and tasty and the coffee not too bad either...everything you'd want in a bright as the sun mind numbing converted car garage time capsule :)

Weber Grill Restaurant - Indianapolis

2010-05-18T09:52:00.008-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

STICK TO MAKING THE GRILLS PLEASE

This a suburban family type restaurant that offers nothing to anyone into food. Large sloppy portions of boring food with no soul. Yuck. I still can't shake off the two times I've been forced to eat here. I'm not giving it any more words in this blog. Give your money to the beggar outside instead.

City Market - Indianapolis Farmers Market

2010-05-17T14:13:00.009-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

MARKET AT THE MARKET

It's back again! May brings the arrival of the Wednesday and Saturday morning Farmer's Market to downtown Indy. Home baked pies, breads, vegetables, herbs, plants, dog treats, furniture, raw food juices, jams and a kitchen sink or two (for a complete list click here) make their appearance on Market Street between Delaware and Alabama from 9:30 am to 1:00 pm.

14 bucks got me three slices of different cake breads from Rene's Bakery, a heavy bag of organic brunch muffins from Valentine Hill Farms, a few pounds of delicious hot house tomatoes and a large handful of Rhubarb from Blitz Greenhouses.

La Reina Bakery - Indianapolis

2010-05-12T12:32:00.020-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

FAST FOOD TAMALES

I used to get excited whenever a new food stand would open up in Saraga (the International Grocery store located in the old Kmart on Lafayette road) but always within what seemed like just a few months everything would just disappear. One Tuesday for example, I stopped by the Mexican food stand for a great Birria de Chivo (goat stew) and the following Monday when I came back for more, it was gone...not just the Birria de Chico from the menu...but the whole restaurant itself! Replaced by a Korean booth like nothing had happened, no one could even tell me where it had moved. Very strange, but that was the pattern to get used to; Japanese one day, Costa Rican the next. The panaderia bakery La Reina however, seems to be the exception and has made the year anniversary mark with some holding power. Gracias mi Dios!

I'm an almost daily shopper to Saraga and I find myself more and more stopping by La Reina on my way out the door. Its almost instinct now to grab a set of thongs and fill up my metal tray with delicious latin desserts; wet savory bread pudding, fruit filled empanadas, pan dulce, bolillos (french rolls) and Mexican wedding cookies to name a few. The portions are large the turnover heavy and the chance at getting a warm empanada fresh from the oven is good.

Instead of turning over like so many of the small food shops before it, La Reina is digging in and selling wonderful home made tamales on the weekends. Sweet and starchy elote corn tamales, beautiful cheesy jalepeno tamales, savory meat tamales are quick selllers on Saturday and Sunday mornings...great masa, good size, great value...take home a bag for an easy family meal. Now that's my idea of fast food for foodies.

Biscuits Cafe - Indianapolis

2010-05-06T13:55:00.017-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

NUMMY YUMMY CHILLA-QUILES!

I've finally found a good Mexican breakfast place in this town...in Broad Ripple no less (a village notorious for its repugnant Mexican)...and open in time to fill up on the way to work (opens at 7am everyday including Sunday). Biscuits is located in the strip mall tucked along the east side of the Monon on 62nd, and is full of home spun Mexican comfort food classics (I had fantastic chilaquiles for breakfast with a pico, guac and green salad side, beans and rice for $6.50) and diner food that Denny's could call home.

This is exactly the type of low budget, locally owned family run diner that sustains food culture. Come on people!...there's even a counter to sit at with stools.

Henry's On East Coffee Bistro - Indianapolis

2010-04-30T09:59:00.011-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

RIPPING UP MY GOLD CARD

OK...I'm gonna admit it...I've earned 68 Starbuck Gold Points in the last 4 months. That's a lot of slick branding and slightly dank coffee drinks chocked up to convenience and drive through that I need to come to terms with. Feeding my need for a local, downtown neighborhood coffee shop to call my own, I headed over to Henry's on East Street in Chatham Arch. I remembered it as Vic's back in the day and although it was a great spot for social activism and meetings, it was not a great place for a cup of joe and something to eat.

Henry's is great! The staff is friendly, the deco is simple coffee house clean, the casual menu is large and their pet friendly attitude seems almost required in this urban neighborhood-focussed coffee bistro. On a Thursday morning the place was packed with buttoned up lawyers, leather pant wearing hair stylists (ok...there was only one), a smattering of gay couples, worker bees and average joes. I sat down with my puppy and the paper and realized how nice it was not having to navigate myself around the luggage-sized purses of yapping housewives in line at Starbucks (that was a little cruel...I take it back).

My latte was good (Portland has ruined me), my eggs were great (hot, moist and light) and my yogurt was better than average (I'm not sure if "homemade" meant cultured there or just seasoned with berries there).

I'm hooked...see you again soon.

Urban Elements II - Indianapolis

2010-04-18T15:21:00.011-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

ELEMENTALLY A SANDWICH SHOP

When I first heard that Urban Elements was opening a second location downtown located in the old Elements space (yes, its a little confusing), I rolled my eyes and thought I'd stay away as long as possible so as not to have to compare the two (I'm still in mourning for the loss of my favorite Indianapolis restaurant guys). Sitting shiva was finally over this morning and I went to their Sunday brunch buffet.

First of all, nothing on the inside has changed. You'd think something should have been altered to reflect the changing of the guard from intelligent, smart food to a sandwich shop...but it all looks the same...odd.

The buffet had an assortment of processed commercial sausages in various forms, breakfast meats steeping in their own grease, a made-to-order omelet and waffle stand which was the main focus of everyone waiting in line, some seasonal fruits and packaged desserts and breads. A good value for less than 10 bucks but nothing I can't get absolutely everywhere else. The water tasted like a fish tank and soured not only my appetite but also the coffee and tea. Get a commercial filter please.

I can't be too hard on the place...after all it was packed. The location on the back patio is perfect for people watching and most of the patrons are probably just looking for a lunchtime-with-chips kinda place. I just have a hard time celebrating that what's replaced the old in this space is considered progress in this town.

Brugge Brasserie - Indianapolis

2010-04-17T11:54:00.004-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

BETTER THAN MOST BUT LESS THAN PERFECT

I find myself being drawn to return to Brugge over and over...is it if for the l'Énorme Frites or perhaps the mussels whose left over sauce on the bottom of the bucket is drinkable (maybe even bath-able)? It sure isn't for the staff which is curt and often rude (you know who you are). The beers are very good (not great)...most of the crepes are ok (the duck is dry, OMG dry)... the charcuterie is tired...the inside is way too loud...BUT...there are a few things on the menu and a moment every so often while you're sitting on the patio people watching on the Monon, that the buzz feels good, the food feels satisfying and it all clicks.

Barking Dog Café - Indianapolis

2010-04-16T17:50:00.015-04:00

INDIANAPOLIS, IN

A Mixed Breed

This is a strange little place. It's in a nice comfortable neighborhood location for a well appointed bistro yet it looks more like something that was thrown together overnight. A lot of attention has been made towards the mixed menu of classic French comfort food and American eastern seaboard fare yet there's nothing to drink but tea, water or soda (its been three years people...find a way to carry beer and wine). The bad lighting, garish color scheme and cheap restaurant surplus supply all seem a little like your neighbor turned their garage into a restaurant....yet in all of the odd jumbles of things that don't belong, it somehow has a mismatched-ness that kinda works. Don't get me wrong. This place is not fashionable (or even trying to be cool) but it IS unique and that counts for something.

While everyone raves about their cheeseburgers, we ordered a mixed bag of fried clams, the trout with sauce menuiere, a filet de porc par lard and the spinach ravioli. Half expecting it to arrive on a oversized Disney character plate set (I still hadn't quit figured out where I had landed) the food was...well...pretty good. The oysters in fact were excellent!

Lesson learned.

Sprout Restaurant - Chicago

2010-04-14T17:46:00.014-04:00

Chicago, Illinois

BRAVO SPROUT

My partner and I made New Year's Eve reservations at the restaurant where Bravo's Top Chef runner up Dale Levitsky was making his new home (Sara Nguyen too...sorry...I bet she's tired of everyone forgetting she made it on the show too). We were excited for the ten course menu and decided to make a weekend out of the event.

We knew there would be a waiting list so we called early to make our reservation. Low and behold it was Dale himself who answered the phone. While wondering why the celebrity chef was answering the phones he made light about it being a small place and that he was in the office to do some ordering anyway. A week before our reservation I called again to ask when the anticipated menu was going to be put online...and again it was Dale answering the call himself. We chit chatted a little about the meal and that was that. Or so I thought. Well...calling four hours before to confirm our New Years Eve reservation we were told we were not on the list and that they were sold out.

"Uh...but I spoke with Dale about it TWICE" I said..."We came into town just for this meal" I pleaded..."It's bloody New Year's Eve and the only place that can take us on short notice is Wendy's" I cried into the phone.

Nothing...they had nothing left...not even a spare table in the restroom and they apologized.

Honestly, I felt like someone had just punched me in the gut. I get so excited about the anticipation of a great meal...getting prepared to go out, the cocktails beforehand and filling an evening with beautiful things...and now...I was all dressed up, its was New Year's Eve, and I could care less. We decided to make the best of it (knowing I was going to RIP Sprout a new one in this blog) and we made reservations at our standard sushi place.

Then the phone rang.

It was the Maitre' D at Sprout. He had called the restaurant owners and they wanted to give us their table for the evening. There was champagne waiting for us and they wondered if we needed a taxi. I cried. This was EXACTLY how it should have been handled. BRAVO SPROUT!

Arriving at the restaurant I was sure we were at the wrong place. The dull exterior and large cheap-looking sign looked like the place was a wholesale rubber mat distributor or maybe a place that sold billiard tables to bars. The large bar and warm bistro color palette was on the right track but everything seemed pieced together without any specific point of view...but...it was clean and warm and we had a reservation.

Sparkling Riesling with blood orange bitters with a spoonful of cane sugar greeted us at the door and our table held our first course;

Caviar infused with peppermint, sliced pear and crushed macadamia nuts.
2008 Independent Producers Chardonnay.

Foie Gras with currents soaked in Ximenex with parsnips.
Fume Blanc from Ferrari Carano.

(my favorite course of the evening)

Sablefish with geoduck, cucumber and potato with french spices.
Coteux D'Aix en Provence, Blanco from Mas de Gourgonneier.

(the fish was prepared perfectly)

Pheasant and lamb with brussel sprouts, apricots and steamed salsify oyster plant.
Negre Samso from Clos de Noi Negre.

(I anticipated this one the most and was underwhelmed)

Raspberry Ice
with a nice Muscat

Truffle infused short ribs with mushrooms, radichio and shaved manchego.
Lodi "Old Vines" Zinfandel from Klinker Brick.

(finger licking good)

Cheese course
Cabernet Franc from Lang & Reed.

(too drunk to remember)

Pineapple and golden beets layered with goat cheese with ginger and chocolate.
Bugey Cerdon.

(my second favorite course of the evening...way to go Sara)

Selection of Milk Chocolate, Dark Chocolate and Violet Truffles.

(boring)

The meal was followed by the two chefs coming out to thank and welcome everyone to the new year. The small space was packed and they spoke as if we were all invited friends sitting in their living room...cozy, warm and full. I'll be back ... probably in the middle of the week for no particular reason and nothing to celebrate except great food and great service.

My New Favorite Thing - Pani Puri

2010-04-08T13:15:00.008-04:00

My new favorite thing? Pani Puri (Poori ...or also called Gol Gappa). These puffed, crispy, mini puri bread discs are usually filled with a spicy chickpea curry or a spicy water made with green chili. Usually four or five are eaten at one sitting as a snack.

Traditionally a street food or home cooking snack, these tasty little puffs are fast becoming available in restaurants as their popularity increases.

Go immediately to your Indian market for the basics to make them yourself (see video) or start by buying them already made in the frozen food section.

YUM!

Eating like the natives - India and Nepal

2010-04-08T11:34:00.020-04:00

So after being in India and Nepal for three weeks and eating like a modern day Maharaja, you'd think I'd have tons to talk about. Well...I do...kinda. First of all, every meal I had was five courses served by dozens of wait staffers in beautiful settings...but to eat safely we had to restrict ourselves to the resorts and five star restaurants (usually I'd hardly call this suffering) but these places like to cater to tourists who demand less spicy, less authentic version of Indian food...or something at least more like the Indian food they already know from home. Disappointing and odd. So...what's the rage in five star Indian cuisine? French and Chinese. Yawn.

One way I got around this and came closer to feeling like a local...or at least feeling like I was eating something similar to all of those wonderful street foods that haunted me everytime I stepped outside my hotel bubble, was gorging myself on breakfasts and snacks.

The enormous "Nashta" breakfast buffets always offered a large regional food selection due to the kitchen staffers eating the left overs as part of their wage. Stuffed Paratha with potatoes and cauliflower, spicy Aloo Puha, Vada Sambhar with green chilis or Toovar Sambhar with lots of lentils...I started a habit of needing a morning fix of chicken soup with green chili, spring onions and a shot of hot sauce...Breakfast Of Champions!

Another easy way to cut through the westernized versions of Indian food was to order a large selection of breads and snacks. The homemade versions of these were always available off menu and the packaged versions were easy to find. Beautiful Chapati, Poori, Kachori and stuffed Kulcha breads made me feel like I was eating local and the dozens of varieties of Pakora, spicy Pakoda and Samosa snacks made me feel like I was getting away with something. The packaged chips and nuts (tamarind and shrimp flavored crackers, green chili and lime peanuts) always kept me guessing and smacking my lips.

Here are a few culinary highlights of the trip:

A hot spicy sauteed cabbage and green bean dish while sitting under a large tent in a garden in Madha Pradesh near Khajarajo. Lots of sun, lots of room temperature beer and lots of spicy chicken stuffed Mughlai Paratha.
A hot, spicy traditional northern samosa served to me in a truck stop near Jaipur when I thought there was no hope from starving to death.
A fantastic lamb curry with the best Chapati I've ever tasted in the Indian restaurant of our resort in Agra. I think I giggled a little bit drenching up the gravy.
A bland tasting Paneer Madras with a wonderful cold beer sitting three stories up on a balcony overlooking Durbar Square in ancient Bhaktapur.
A miniature butterfinger bar I had stuffed away in my bag after 16 days of sweet withdrawal (I'm not too proud to admit it).
Home made Nepalese moonshine served to me in small saucers while I sat on the floor, watched dancers and pretended that sitting on the floor was comfortable and that I wasn't getting drunk.
Savory tasting whipped milk icing birthday cake given to me from friends in the New Delhi Airport.

I'd love to go back...but I want to do my homework first next time. I need to find out exactly how long it would take and exactly how sick I need to get in order to acclimate the common Indian street food bacteria into my diet. I'm thinking small doses over a few months should get me close to being able to walk up to a bustling street vendor and order anything I want.

Paulette Macarons - Los Angeles

2009-10-11T11:37:00.017-04:00

Beverly Hills, California

DÉLICIEUX!

The great thing about LA (or any major city for that matter) is the instant accessibility to anything. Walking on Rodeo, tired, needing some time to get off my feet, it was an easy two block walk to find Paulette's. Once inside it felt as if I'd made an even longer journey directly to Paris (see earlier Pierre Hermé post).

A beautiful atmospheric space with an undulating curved counter filled with brightly colored macarons. OMG. perfect!

Paulette herself was lovely. I talked with her about macarons, Paris and Pierre Hermé. Being sheepish in comparing her work to Hermé was a polite gesture since her work spoke for itself. The award winning space styled by Viennese architect Andrea Lenardin Madden and the fresh daily macarons made by herself and master pastry chef Christophe Michalak were a world class tribute to the modern haute patisserie française. I filled a sleeve with a dozen samples and sat outside with a friend getting high on our beautiful cache;

Caramel - ooey-gooey rich and chewy
Coconut - 2 dimensional
Madagascar Vanilla - PERFECT...really...just perfect!
Passion Fruit - an explosion of clean, bright, rich flavor. Pierre Hermé could not have done better himself.
Rose - too perfumey and strong
Sweet Wedding Almond - Dragée - nice but I've had better
Sicilian Pistachio - Excellent
Colombian Coffee - boring. It tasted like espresso powder.

I've already mail ordered a sleeve of my favorites.

Maxine's Chicken & Waffles - Indianapolis

2009-09-27T14:05:00.022-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

JUST LIKE MY GRANDMA'S GAS STATION

This was only the second time I've eaten at Maxine's. The first was to expose a Jewish New Yorker friend now living in Paris to the southern tradition of chicken and waffles... and this time it was out of guilt for living just down the street and not supporting food diversity so close to home.

The family run restaurant is attached to the gas station at the corner of east and Ohio. Yes, that's right, I said attached to a gas station. It's somehow fitting in my mind though to have soul comforting casual food tucked in behind a service station. Go figure.

Both times were on a Sunday for lunch and the place was standing room only. Nicely mixed crowd of people looking for a family meal after church, a rest on their way to the colts game or just looking to tuck in to some smooth comfort food.

We started off with fried corn cakes with peach butter...YUM! They were perfect; slightly carmelized yet spongy, warm and rich. I would have been happy getting three orders for my meal and calling it quits.

I had a tall glass of D&K (half lemonade and half sweet tea) which is served on the sweet side of sugar. I ordered mine with regular tea and lemonade instead and was reminded of a wonderful taste from somewhere in my childhood. It's something I plan on resurrecting in my adult life.

Although I came in for chicken and waffles I ended up ordering the catfish dinner with a side of grits and fried green tomatoes. The dinner came with three large deep fried catfish fillets in a perfectly thin crispy cornmeal coating. None of that muddy catfish taste or sour fry greese taste on these filets. The fish was clean, fresh and its crust seasoned lightly with a few shakes of classic black pepper, salt and cayenne. The fried green tomatoes were excellent and won my heart. Their hot, sweet, garden green taste will bring me back again. The grits unfortunately were nothing special, They were a huge portion mind you, but a nudge in either the savory or sweet direction from the kitchen would have been helpful.

The wait staff and cooks are friendly, smiling and happy to see you. The food is solid southern home cooking and you're left feeling like you've just had a meal at your southern Grandma's kitchen table...uh...gas station. The food is what it is...fattening, sweet, fried, inexpensive, friendly comfort food that feels good and tastes great.

Saffron Cafe - Indianapolis

2009-09-21T19:05:00.015-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

MORE PLEASE!

I was dubious...afterall, I have such yawnful food memories tied into that dump of a building that housed the Canary Café for all those years that I wasn't sure anything culinary could grow out of its ashes. The Saffron Café however seems to be growing like a well tended flower.

The place was packed with people and the wonderful odor of braised meats with garlic and onions made it almost impossible not to say "yum" as you walked up to the entrance. Inside and spilling out onto the patio were large tables full of families with children, small two toppers of otherwise romantic couples, lots of locals and a ton of foreigners looking for something different. We ran into friends from the Philippines, Australia and South Africa and the people at the table next to us were from England and France....all this in the space of my living room!

I ordered a Alhambra beer and started off with plates of Hummus, Zaalouk (a Moroccan style eggplant spread) and Bakoula (a classic spinach spread) served with feta cheese, kalamata olives, tomato, cucumber, artichoke hearts and warm pita. The hummus was beautifully smooth and the Zaalouk perfectly chunky. Good olive oil everywhere and just enough lemon to zing it up. The Zaalouk could have used a splash of chili oil and they were skimpy on the artichoke hearts.

The lamb tagine was perfect home-style cooking. The portion was large and the beautifully braised chunks of leg of lamb floated in a dark unctous gravy with peas, artichoke hearts and pickled lemon. It was wonderful. I devoured every last drop and soaked the beautiful sauce up with hot crusted bread. Chef Sentissi on one of his many rounds through the house was honored with my accolade of the food being "serious home cooking!"

All of the desserts are made on location and while the Tiramisu was ok (I prefer the Sienese style which has a harder custard and a stronger coffee and liquor taste) the baklava was top notch. next time? The Harrira smelled wonderful and the Kafta Kabbab looked delicious.

Miyagi's Sushi Bar - Indianapolis

2009-09-16T20:31:00.020-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

TWO CHOP STICKS UP!

I was really shocked people...I thought this was going to be another one of those fringe sushi bars located in a strip mall that is just waiting for the health department to find it. Afterall, nothing says "good eats" like being told its location is sandwiched between two car dealerships. Yum!

We arrived...groaned a few times driving around the empty strip mall parking lot and weren't anticipating much. The decor was...uh...nice! Commercially slick surfaces, polished and primped urban sushi house stylings...it felt like a midwestern low budget version of Buddakan or China Grill (that was a compliment actually).

They have a huge menu ranging from new sushi (Uni shooters and gourmet rolls) to traditional japanese favorites (maki, tempura and noodles type fare) to regular midwestern palette pleasures of filet mignon and lobster. We started off with a spicy crab salad sample served along side a wonton cracker (was I just given an amuse bouche in Indianapolis?) and it was so tangy spicy delicious I order a whole serving for myself. We mixed our selections from across the menu.

The Ultimate Tuna Sashimi...not sooo ultimate.

We ordered a smattering of traditional rolls and modern gourmet rolls recommended as house favorites. Six rolls in all and I wasn't that thrilled with the traditional attempts. They were fine...nothing particualrly bad about them i guess...but I didn't get that bursting fresh fish taste with any of them. I assumed it was due to the sashimi turn over not being what it should be; we were almost the only ones in the dining room on a Saturday night.

The center piece of our meal was the Ishi Yaki; the tradition of cooking meat on a hot rock table side. Our tuna selections were large and the ginger dipping sauce marinade they floated in was finger licking great! I hope Ishi Yaki has a rebirth in new japanese american cooking and becomes the new fondue. It's elegant, tastes great and is an easy way to slow down the meal.

A nice surprise was the bacon wrapped scallop cakes. Scallops and blue crab minced with peppers, shallots and chives, wrapped in marinated bacon served on top of a plum teriyake sauce. The presentation was beautiful, the sauce not too sweet and the "cakes" juicy and large.

I think this place has a chance...the food is not the problem here...actually I'm not sure if there IS a problem here. It's location is not very appetizing yet it has some big box restaurant neighbors that are doing very well. Come on people...let's meet for a spicy crunchy tuna roll.

Goose The Market - Indianapolis

2009-09-05T17:33:00.017-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

FOOD LOVER'S TROVE

I love this secret place...ok...it no secret anymore but it still feels like one set into the residential near northside of downtown. It's a small market store with fresh cases hugging one side and the other side peppered with bins filled with locally picked produce, european inspired general food stock and canned goodies. The Cellar downstairs has a great selection of wines I'm usually not familiar with and in a variety of price points. The cash wrap upstairs also serves a small menu selection of gourmet sandwiches, coffees, breads and gelato.

I went in early Saturday morning for some staples and the fresh cases were stocked with beautiful dark red fresh meat, shockingly ample charcuterie (including Waygu Bresaola people!) and unctuous designer cheese. I chose a beautiful roasting rabbit (not frozen thank God), a pound of hand made Italian sausage, a few chicken parts and two lovingly wrapped large bundles of chicken necks and bones. I grabbed some local onions, a well priced bottle of Spanish Verdejo, a French Muscadet and sat outside in the morning sun to eat my breakfast. I ordered a bagel with salmon pastrami, pickled red onions and crème frâiche (which was good but could have been better with a stronger brine taste such as capers).

What I love about this place (apart from feeling like I'm living in Knightsbridge or Kensington) is that they put their money where their mouth is. These people love food so they show it. They don't talk about loving food and then take the easy way out. They buy local (when possible) and at least 35 of their vendors I've counted are regional Indiana suppliers. They approach food without pretense (they have a Bacon of the Month Club for god's sake) and I hope they flourish in this otherwise food barren town.

Sushi Samba - Chicago

2009-08-22T11:38:00.013-04:00

Chicago, Illinois

WHAT HAPPENED?

I used to love this place...I used to love this chain...I have so many great food memories from the Miami and Manhattan restaurant locations and hope that they haven't also become this decrepit.

SUSHISAMBA used to be fun. Where else could you put together an evening of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian fusion cuisine, music and design? I stopped in three times over a five week period and found myself sitting in broken chairs at chipped tables in a filthy restaurant with stained carpet and dirty dishes. What the hell happened here people?

The food was good...well let me rephrase that...the food was above average and only because it still retains some of it's exciting roots that can't easily be found elsewhere; I'm a sucker for aji infused wasabi and a heaping bowl of cancha fried corn.

Over my three dinner meals I had some ups and downs. The flash fried Japanese river crab was ok, the green bean tempura with black truffle aioli was limp and cold yet the chicharron was excellent. Consistency is probably the biggest issue I found...even a simple yellow tail ceviche which was very good the first time I ordered it, came back the following week as a disaster which hung thickly on my spoon and bubbled in my stomach. The Samba rolls seem to have the best shelf life from visit to visit, particularly the zuke tuna and kobe rolls. The entrées I stomached were boring including a quinoa casserole which stunk like dirty mushrooms. really? The highlight of all three visits was the medley of four seaweeds; clean and fresh and yummy.

Let's call a spade a spade. Sushi Samba is no longer hip. It's not even clean and the food is not exciting enough any longer to hold your attention. So long Sex and the City crowd. The fusion nature of the space as a bar restaurant live music special event venue probably has merit these days, but I'm not interested in gagging down sloppy fare to live Afro-Brazilian percussion pumped to 100 decibels. The martinis are strong and the liquor is top shelf.

Jar Restaurant - Los Angeles

2009-08-18T12:11:00.014-04:00

Los Angeles, California

TOP CHEF MASTERFUL

After seeing the thoughtful dishes coming out of Suzanne Tracht on Top Chef Masters, I immediately made a reservation at her restaurant in Los Angeles. "Jar" located on Beverly and Harper, makes you feel like you've just stumbled onto a neighborhood secret when you pull up to its small corner location.

The decor was simple and stylish...a little mod... nothing pretentious... an open, comfortable dining room with soft leathers and soothing wood tones that helped us sink into our martinis and the menu.

This is a chop house... a modern American California inspired version of one mind you, and the main focus of the menu are the Braised and Sautéed selections along with a few well chosen family-style sides. I had a braised pork shank prepared with star anise, coriander and garlic floating in an amazing reduction that I think is one of the best I've had...anywhere. It was simple, straight forward and delicious! It was the Sunday type dinner that warms your belly and makes you sleepy. Suzanne Tracht...will you marry me?

We shared a table of ample sized side dishes including Japanese purple yams, creamed spinach, duck fried rice, sautéed pea tendrils and asparagus. Very good...not great.

Dessert was as true to the restaurants mission as anything else on the menu...a straight forward, delicious, comfort food American classic; butterscotch pudding.

Pierre Hermé Macaroons - Paris

2009-08-18T10:33:00.016-04:00

Paris, France

MACARONS...BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS

If you haven't had a french macaron before you're in luck...you'll be ever chasing your first macaron high. First of all you have to get rid of the coconut stack idea of a macaroon most people associate with the name and think of a soft chewy meringue type cake cookie on either side of a confiseur filling. In essence they are tiny flat almond cakes filled with ganache. Light and delicate but bursting with flavor. The have a chew to hold onto but start melting as soon as they touch the tongue. They are the quintessential Parisian pastry and they take them very seriously.

We woke up early and made a bee-line to the St Germain de Près boutique of the French macaron master Pierre Hermé. The "jewelery shop" boutique as its referred to at 72 Rue Bonaparte is in almost direct opposition to the soft pop and candy colored decor of the rue de Vaugirard store. The small, rich, walnut paneled boutique (wait...was I just buzzed in?, no) exudes elegance and even a little Swiss restraint in design. The brilliant colors of the tartes and petite gateau, macarons and petits-fours pop like culinary gems underneath the long showcase.

The service is polite and professional. You must declare your intentions first or at least tell them which size of brightly colored box you'll need....not being shy I of course went big. Each macaron selected was delicately pinched with silver tongs and whisked away to the staging area for packaging. Escorted to the cashier, my wrapped ribbon box was presented to me with a little apprehension and a large feeling of responsibility. So French...Gawd [rolling eyes].

Running out of the boutique with glee we settled down on the steps of St. Sulpice and delicately shared each others catches. The Arabesque of pistachio with apricot filling was so beautiful, the l'Huile d'Olive macaron started me down a future path of loving olive oil cakes, the Plentitude was a chocolate and caramel wonder and the Fleur de Sel and caramel macaron was chewy, stiff, light and gooey. My favorite was the simple one of chocolate and coffee.

I've heard that real Pierre Hermé fans should go to Tokyo where his macarons are all the rage and he supports them with a chocolate boutique bar, a gourmet convenience store and the largest of his four retail outlets. As they say in Japanese "Mou ii kai" - "here I come!"

Barcelona Tapas Restaurant - Indianapolis

2009-08-17T18:10:00.002-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

COME ON PEOPLE!

I've eaten here several times, tried my best to eat everything on the menu and keep wondering why this place has a ton of people in it whenever I walk by. This place is a hoosier version of a Spanish culinary tradition and it is...I have to say...the worst attempt at the tapas trend I've tried. It's mostly filled with a younger crowd and I have to venture to guess that it's due to the cheap plate prices and that demographic not having had the real thing.

This place has sloppy, lazy renditions of some Spanish classics yet tries to be casually elegant in presentation. I don't think there's a single imported item in the kitchen and even with the simple classics they miss that it should be about great ingredients. I'm embarrassed to say that our table actually laughed at the Sangria and sent it back.

I'm sorry...I want to support something like this place...especially downtown...I really do! But I just can't get over the large elephant in the middle of the culinary room; This is lazy, cheap food that isn't even very tasty.

If the food wasn't odd enough? The staff is young (as you'd expect) and they seem to think that just because they've been told what Boquerones and Almendras are that it comes with a degree in snotty. How about actually preparing food well first?

Hai Sizzling Wok Restaurant - Indianapolis

2009-08-17T12:24:00.003-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

SCUMMY YUMMY!

The atmosphere makes it hard to convince my coworkers to join me here for lunch, and the area of town only makes it worse...but the Sautéed Beef Rolls are out of this world and the Vietnamese Chicken Soup is more feel-good than your Jewish mother's matzoh ball. The Comb Soup (pictured) is a winter day delight and the green and yellow curries are soulfully satisfying. The Gai Rolls are above average.

This place is the inexpensive strip mall secret on the near west side.

Hot Tuna Seafood Restaurant - Indianapolis

2009-08-17T12:10:00.000-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

REVOLTING!

Hot Tuna is artificially kept alive due to the Omni "needing" a restaurant to service their guests. This place, like it's name, churns the stomach as boring, lifeless, culinary school type "food." Do we really need more of this kind of place in this town?

My stomach still bubbles from the smell of the coagulated butter cheese sauce that dressed my pasta. Burp.

Amici's Italian Restaurant - Indianapolis

2009-08-17T11:59:00.004-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

LIKE IT.

Don't confuse my "like it" status to mean the food is good though. It's Midwestern watered down crappy Italian but it's a Lockerbie neighborhood social gathering spot where sometimes it's nice to see local folks and gnaw on a cheap cardboard pizza.

The sausage linguini reminds me of something you would have made on a hot plate in the dorm freshman year.

New Favorite Thing - Latin "Sweet Bread" Snacks

2009-08-16T22:07:00.002-04:00

My latest addiction? The slightly sweet and savory latin snack breads! They are in between a dense bread and a cake texture and I've seen them with fig (my favorite), date, pineapple or strawberry fruit purée smeared thinly across the middle of them. They are overall dry with just enough moisture to grab in your mouth. The top of the bread is usually lightly dusted with sugar or crystallized fruit sugar. I've bought them in Miami as "Cuban Bread", "Date Bread" and "Sweet Bread" and have found them in the midwest under "Sweet Bread" and in the El Salvadoran grocery section as "ZEMITA LIDO."

They are great on their own...not too sweet...as well as broken apart and layered underneath a coconut pudding. I like them slightly above room temperature.

VOX Restaurant - Reykjavik

2009-08-16T13:03:00.003-04:00

Reykjavik, Iceland

NEW YEAR'S EVE CELEBRATION EXTRAORDINAIRE

One of the main reasons I wanted to start this blog was to share different experiences I've had with food...here's one from my food journal (one of those analog paper binder things that you write in? remember those?) from a winter holiday trip we took to Iceland in 2007.

This was a really special meal and a daunting one too (we arrived to over 20 wine glasses on our table for two) and was the perfect ending to a long day stuck on frozen roads, a wonderful trip to the frozen waterfalls, a choral evensong in Icelandic at Hallsgrimskirkja and the most insane and dangerous free for all of fireworks on the planet (those people are scary addicted to fireworks).

The amuse bouche consisted of a smoked reindeer with herbed cream and french pastry served on a sterling bent amuse-bouche spoon along with a very small demi-tasse of spiced carrot soup foam and a glass of champagne.

The first course was a lightly cooked shellfish tartare of shrimp, scallops and lobster with buttermilk and vendage roe infused with shallots, dill and Danish balsamic apple vinegar. It was served in an open organic looking tear shaped metal bowl on top of a large charger. Glass of Bründlemayer Steinmassel Riesling 2003

The second course was perfectly marinated pickled herring with hot spring rye bread and beetroot three ways with fresh herbs. It was served in a small pickled herring jar with lid and a tiny sterling fork on a wooden tray. Small glass of Danish "Öl" beer and a cordial glass of Icelandic Brennevin "Snafs" with fresh dill.

The third course was a refreshing light course of locally caught rainbow trout served with home made feta cheese on Icelandic blinis with crème fraîche. Glass of Pouilly Fuissé Bouchard Aîne 2006

The fourth course was a very nice small cup of creamy celery soup infused with Swedish truffles, and topped with chives and a crouton. Another glass of the Pouilly Fuissé Bouchard Aîne 2006 (ok people...getting drunk here).

The fifth course was a pine wrapped langoustine fried in Icelandic butter and served with a shellfish gel cauliflower, broccoli and almond herb salad...with a large pour of Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2005.

The sixth course (was...something with more alcohol....ok...stop drinking every drop Mark and you'll make it) was Reindeer was served two ways; slowly cooked and lightly fried, served with root vegetables, mushrooms and fondant potatoes with a small pitcher of gravy and a small glass of Inkara Shiraz 2004

The seventh course was a small selection of warm local goat cheese served with apple glaze and purée and a sip of Sancerre Frank Millet 2005.

Our lovely meal was rounded off with two dessert courses; the petit dessert of almond praliné with mandarin served with rosemary ice cream with orange peel was the best thing that has ever entered my mouth...EVER! Followed by a trio of chocolate foam, chocolate mousse and dark chocolate shavings served on a bent spoon. The final glass for the night was an excellent Torres Muscatel Oro.

I'm embarassed to disclose how much this meal was (except to say it was equal to my mortgage payment)...and although I realize that money can't buy happiness...sometimes it comes close.

The Oceanaire Restaurant - Indianapolis

2009-08-16T11:01:00.007-04:00

Indianapolis, Indiana

I HAVEN'T STOPPED CRYING

I don't understand the buzz about this place...it looks like just any other chain not trying to be a chain while tempting local customers into thinking that expensive prices equals good food. Sure the 1930's ocean liner styling ambiance is delightful (hmmm...these beautiful plaster columns look familiar though...wait a minute...I'm sitting where the Clinique counter used to be in the old L.S. Ayres department store! I'm eating in a mall?) but it starts to feel cheap real quick with the lack of a dress code; jeans, shorts, t-shirts and ball caps (Im not kidding). I know this is the casual midwest but for god's sake people, at least require business casual when you're charging me $38 for Arctic Char...in fact...you MUST show me a high heel and a few sport jackets.

First impressions of the menu were good...fantastic looking raw bar, good minded ceviche and traditional caviar service...I think I'm gonna like this...uh...wait a minute...my waiter (who up until last month was a realtor) just asked me if tap water was ok. "Check please!"

The Tuna Tartare was lackluster and could have been helped with a crank of sea salt, a splash of citrus and a shot of spice (wasabi, soy, sriracha...anything boys). The purist in me tried again...but even the buttery, openly round taste of raw tuna was missing. What in the hell was I actually eating? Do they store their sashimi in water?

Round two...Maine Diver Scallops...one of my favorites (even though I know they are out of season) and something every chef likes to use because they (like lobster) speak beautifully for themselves. I ordered them suggesting the Chef's best preparation and I have to admit I thought of nothing else for the next 20 minutes. My knees were bouncing...my eyes stuck on objects at the table as I day dreamed about them. "Maybe they'll be floating in a light lobster and wine sauce...perhaps piled high on a small bunch of chanterelles or sea greens... or maybe stacked on a rutabaga purée with a touch of dijon?"

Finally our realtor (I mean waiter) rounded the corner, his arms piled high with dishes and proudly presented in front of me my...uh....I have no idea what he just put down infront of me.

My scallops smelled like seaweed, were smaller than expected, seared incorrectly and mixed into a bowl of marinated sliced skirt steak, a small handful of what I think were either marinated enoki or sea vegetables and tossed in a sticky sickeningly sweet brown sauce and served with bread (?). NO!!...it was absolutely revolting. I must have looked like I was about to cry since everyone at the table stopped looking at me and a strange hush came over them. I swallowed hard, took another bite and imagined I was required to eat it.

Third course? Dessert? (which mind you was a pull-off-the-top processed vanilla ice cream cardboard dixie cup with wooden spoon attached piece of crap served on a warmed plate...no...not a playful culinary amuse presentation of what I just described filled with maybe a french custard or a zabaglione, but the actual processed 49 cent hunk of crap manufactured by some new jersey company with freezer burn). uh...no thanks.

No Sporks Allowed

Bacon & Dark Chocolate Chip Cookies With Maple Cinnamon Glaze

Servings Size

Farm Bloomington

Recess

Hollyhock Hill

Napolese

Taqueria Five Amigos Mexican Food Stand

Naisa Pan-Asian Cafe

Harvest - St Louis

Istanbul Cafe - Indianapolis

My New Favorite Treat - Persian Saffron Brittle

The Tamale Place - Indianapolis

Pigs In The Mud - Indianapolis

Machu Picchu Peruvian Restaurant - Indianapolis

"On Time" Chinese Dim Sum Restaurant

TaTa Cuban Cafe

Circle City Sweets - Indianapolis

Locally Grown Gardens - Indianapolis

Good Morning Mama's Cafe - Indianapolis

Weber Grill Restaurant - Indianapolis

City Market - Indianapolis Farmers Market

La Reina Bakery - Indianapolis

Biscuits Cafe - Indianapolis

Henry's On East Coffee Bistro - Indianapolis

Urban Elements II - Indianapolis

Brugge Brasserie - Indianapolis

Barking Dog Café - Indianapolis

Sprout Restaurant - Chicago

My New Favorite Thing - Pani Puri

Eating like the natives - India and Nepal

Paulette Macarons - Los Angeles

Maxine's Chicken & Waffles - Indianapolis

Saffron Cafe - Indianapolis

Miyagi's Sushi Bar - Indianapolis

Goose The Market - Indianapolis

Sushi Samba - Chicago

Jar Restaurant - Los Angeles

Pierre Hermé Macaroons - Paris

Barcelona Tapas Restaurant - Indianapolis

Hai Sizzling Wok Restaurant - Indianapolis

Hot Tuna Seafood Restaurant - Indianapolis

Amici's Italian Restaurant - Indianapolis

New Favorite Thing - Latin "Sweet Bread" Snacks

VOX Restaurant - Reykjavik

The Oceanaire Restaurant - Indianapolis